RC Club Buying Guide – Indoor Classes
Welcome to our RC Club Buying Guide! This is designed to help newcomers and returning racers get started in our indoor classes. Each section covers radio gear, chassis, motors, ESC, servo, tyres, bodyshells, wings, additives, spares, and batteries.
✅ Tip for newcomers: Start simple. You don’t need the newest or most expensive parts to have fun or be competitive. Focus on reliable parts, safe batteries, and learning the track.
RADIO GEAR
Before anything else, your radio gear is the most important part of your setup. A reliable transmitter, receiver, and antenna setup keeps your car predictable and safe on track.
- Transmitter type – There are stick-style and wheel-style transmitters.
- Stick transmitters are common for Formula, Touring, and many indoor classes.
- Wheel transmitters are often used for Touring and 1/10th scale RC cars.
- Tip: Try both styles with someone else’s gear before buying to see which feels natural in your hands.
- Receiver – Make sure it’s compatible with your transmitter. Binding and fail-safe features are key.
- Servo compatibility – Ensure your transmitter can handle the servo type you choose.
- Battery for radio – Keep a fresh, fully charged pack in your transmitter.
✅ Tip: Radio problems are the quickest way to ruin a day, so invest in something reliable rather than just cheap.
Pit table bits and bobs
Aside from the car and the radio gear – You’ll also need to use a suitable LIPO/Nimh charger. These can be bought from £15.00 upwards, and the best ones will feature a whole host of discharge, cycle and other addons. You will need charge leads, and you should always use balance charging on Lipos. An absolute must is a Fireproof LIPO sack!
Tools – Depending on which class you are running! Most Tamiya cars are very user friendly with Posi-drive screwdrivers being the norm. Other classes will feature Allen key bolts, ranging from 1.5mm to 3mm. Again, you can pick up toolsets very cheaply on Amazon and the like.
Table – We have a limited number we can loan, so a simple picnic table is always a good idea to bring along! Nothing worse than having to sit on the floor to do a complicated rebuild job.
Formula One
Formula One cars are one of the most exciting classes we run at the club. They’re light, fast, and rewarding to drive – but also surprisingly simple to get started with. Below is a guide to the main parts you’ll need and what we recommend for both beginners and regular racers.
Chassis
You’ll need an F1-style 1/10th scale chassis. Popular choices at the club include Tamiya F102, F103, F104 – reliable, simple, and easy to find parts for. Exotek Ultra, Xray X1, Schumacher Icon – more modern designs with extra tuning options.
Motors
We keep things simple with brushed motors. 27T Core Brushed – around £10 and a great balance of speed and reliability. Silvercan motors – the “standard” Tamiya motors, slightly slower but cheap and durable.
Speed Controller (ESC)
Any brushed ESC will do the job. Most racers use ISDT ESC70 / ESC90 – small, modern, and smooth. Hobbywing 1060 / 1080 – popular budget options that are very reliable.
Servo
A low-profile servo is best, since space is tight in F1 chassis. Savox and Highest RC make excellent models. Look for something quick and precise to help keep the car stable.
LiPo Batteries
Most racers use 2S LiPo packs (7.4V or 7.6V). Always charge to 4.20V per cell. There are many options on the market, but we recommend using LiPos accepted on the BRCA list for safety and reliability. Good packs will give consistent power and last longer when maintained properly.
Tyres
Foam tyres give the best grip and consistency. Matrix – 45/50 front and 30/35 rear are common. Contact – another good choice we often see at the club. Rubber tyres can also be used – choose harder fronts and softer rears for balance.
Bodyshells
Any F1-style shell will fit. Popular brands: Mardave, Montech, Tamiya. Paint it however you like – replica liveries look awesome, but don’t feel you have to!
Additive
Tyre additive helps with grip. A water-based additive works best. MR33, SXT 3.0, Spider Blue are all good options. Apply full width on the rears, and about half-width on the inside of the fronts. Always wipe the tyres before going on track.
Spares & Hop-Ups
It’s worth having a few spares in your pit box. Wishbones and wheel knuckles are the most common breakages. Hop-ups are allowed – upgrade as much or as little as you like.
12th Mini (Brushed / Brushless)
12th Scale Mini Racing is one of the most enjoyable and accessible classes at the club. It’s perfect for newcomers to RC racing, offering a balance of simplicity, fun, and close competition. The class is split between Brushed and Brushless Minis. Brushed cars are a fantastic entry point for beginners and those looking to learn mechanical and engineering fundamentals. Brushless cars use more advanced components, offering a faster, more competitive experience once you’re ready to step up.
Below is a guide to the main parts you’ll need for both classes and what we recommend for reliable, club-level performance.
Chassis
Most 12th Scale Mini chassis are made by Mardave or Battcave, though Kamtec and TWR also produce suitable options.
Each chassis comes either pre-built or in kit form, including all essential components – steering arms, motor pods, suspension parts, and turnbuckles.
Brushed chassis typically feature cutouts in the lower plate to house NiMH batteries low in the car for better balance. Brushless chassis usually have a solid lower plate to protect LiPo packs and maintain rigidity.
Motors
Brushed: The most popular choices are the Mardave G2 F20, Kamtec Satan 20T, and 21T silver can motors. They provide a good mix of speed, reliability, and affordability.
Brushless: 25.5T motors are standard, from brands such as Hobbywing and Surpass. These are often sold as combos with a matching ESC. Other 25.5T 2S-compatible motors can be used as long as the total cost does not exceed £50.
Speed Controllers (ESC)
Brushed: The Mtroniks Mardave HR3 is the go-to choice and perfectly matched to 4.8V NiMH power. Hobbywing 1060 ESCs can also be used but may require minor modification to run correctly on NiMH cells.
Brushless: Hobbywing and Surpass combos are most common. Any 2S-compatible ESC is allowed, provided it cannot enable boost or timing changes. Maximum recommended budget is £80.
Servo
Most 12th Mini cars use standard-size or low-profile servos with a 25T spline. A low-profile servo helps maximise space and weight balance. Some chassis also allow forward-mounted micro servos. Aim for a quick, reliable servo with a maximum budget of £50.
Batteries
Brushed: Run 4.8V NiMH 4-cell packs, either in stick or saddle configuration. Saddle cells help lower the centre of gravity and improve handling. These packs are widely available and very affordable.
Brushless: Use a 2S shorty LiPo, ideally 93mm in length. Some chassis can be modified to accept up to 95mm. Always check the BRCA homologation list for approved, safe packs.
Tyres
Both Brushed and Brushless cars use foam tyres, most commonly from Contact RC. Typical choices are 47 shore fronts (JM47FB) and 35 shore rears (JM35RN). Tyres are a great area to experiment with as you gain experience – try different shore ratings to adjust grip and balance.
Bodyshells
PHAT Bodies currently produce the most popular shells for this class, though Kamtec, Mardave, and Battcave also offer excellent alternatives.
This is where you can get creative – whether you paint your own using Tamiya spray cans or have one professionally airbrushed by painters like JF Airbrush or K-Paint, your Mini can look as good as it drives.
Additive
Additives (“tyre sauce”) help improve traction. Spider Grip Blue and SXT 3.0 are popular and widely used.
For Minis, a good starting point is to apply additive to the rear tyres, let it soak for 20 minutes, wipe off, then allow around 5 minutes to dry before running. Front tyres are rarely treated to avoid oversteer.
Spares & Hop-Ups
12th Scale Minis are tough and beginner-friendly, but it’s sensible to keep spares of front wishbones and kingpins – they’re the most likely to break.
Having a few sets of tyres in different shore ratings helps tune your car for varying grip levels.
Hop-ups such as camber braces, servo braces, and upgraded servo mounts can enhance durability and performance as you gain confidence.
Group C / 10th GT
Chassis
Group C cars are typically based on either the original Tamiya Group C tub chassis kits (such as the Jaguar XJR-12 or Mercedes C11), or an F1 chassis that’s been converted with the appropriate body mounts and wheelbase. Modern F1 cars like the Tamiya F103/F104, Xray X1, and Schumacher Icon are commonly adapted for this class.
Motors
We run the same 27t Core brushed motor as in Formula One – excellent performance and easily available for around £10. Standard “silvercan” motors are also permitted.
ESC
Any brushed ESC will work fine. Popular options include the ISDT ESC70/ESC90 for their smooth throttle feel, or the Hobbywing 1060/1080 for affordable reliability.
Servo
Space is often tight in these chassis, so a low-profile servo is strongly recommended. Brands like Savox and Highest RC provide reliable, quick options.
LiPo Batteries
We run 2S LiPo packs (7.4v or 7.6v). Always charge to a maximum of 4.20v per cell. Many options are available on the market, but we recommend using those listed on the BRCA approved LiPo list for safety and compliance.
Tyres
Group C cars run foam tyres for maximum grip. Popular choices are Matrix (45/50 Fronts and 30/35 Rears), Fenix Racing and Contact foams. Rubber tyres are permitted, but for consistency we’d suggest using the softest rears and slightly harder fronts.
Bodyshells
Cars in this class should carry a body that represents the classic Group C or early LMP era. Popular shells include the Tamiya Jaguar, Mazda 787B, Sauber Mercedes, and Porsche 962. They not only look fantastic on track, but really capture the spirit of the class.
Additive
A water-based additive is the go-to for these cars. Apply full width on the rear tyres, and about half-width on the inside fronts. MR33, SXT3.0, or Spider Blue are reliable picks. Always wipe off before heading onto the track.
Spares and Hop-Ups
Keep spare wishbones, wheel knuckles, and front end hardware handy – these are the most common breakages. Hop-ups are allowed and widely used, so feel free to strengthen and tune your car as you see fit.
Blinky Touring Car
Blinky Touring Cars are one of the fastest classes we run at the club. They’re fast, durable, and great fun – while keeping costs sensible with “blinky” electronics. Below is a guide to the main parts you’ll need and what we recommend for both beginners and regular racers.
Chassis
Any 1/10th Touring Car chassis can be used. Budget-friendly options from Xpress, Schumacher and Yokomo are great to start with, while premium kits from Mugen, Xray and Infinity offer higher-end features.
Motors
Run 17.5T brushless or slower to suit our track. Most drivers gear for a Final Drive Ratio between 5.2 and 5.6; adjust within that range to suit your car and driving style.
Speed Controller (ESC)
ESCs must be run in Blinky mode (no boost or turbo). You can increase punch to sharpen initial throttle response if you prefer.
Servo
A low-profile servo is recommended to save space and keep weight low, improving steering response and balance.
LiPo Batteries
Most drivers use a full-size 2S LiPo (7.4V or 7.6V). Always charge to 4.20V per cell. We recommend BRCA-listed packs for safety and reliability.
Tyres
Slick rubber tyres only. Popular choices that work well on our surface are Volante 28s, Contact 30s and Rush 28s.
Bodyshells
Most racers favour aerodynamic “aero blob” shells for performance. Common choices include Montech, Xtreme and Bittydesign.
Additive
Tyre additive helps with grip. A water-based additive works best. MR33, SXT 3.0 and Spider Blue are all good options. Apply full width on the rears, and about half-width on the inside of the fronts. Always wipe the tyres before going on track.
Spares & Hop-Ups
Keep spare wishbones and driveshafts in your pit box – they’re the most common breakages. Hop-ups are allowed, so upgrade as needed once you’re comfortable with the car.
2WD M-Chassis
2WD M-Chassis cars are some of the most fun and characterful models you’ll see on track. Compact, nimble, and often styled after iconic road cars, they’re a brilliant way to enjoy close racing with minimal running costs. The class keeps things simple and affordable, with clearly defined rules to ensure fair and competitive racing.
Below is a breakdown of what you’ll need and what we recommend for a reliable club-level setup.
Chassis
The most common chassis in use are from Tamiya’s long-running M-Chassis range – particularly the M-05 and M-07, which are both front-wheel drive and extremely popular. Older versions like the M-03 can still perform well with a bit of care.
Other options include Xpress and 3Racing, both offering FWD M-class cars with modern designs and excellent parts support. Whichever you choose, aim for a minimum ride height of 5mm and a total weight of at least 1200g to meet class rules.
Motors
You can run either:
• A 21.5T brushless motor (in Blinky mode) – smooth, efficient, and consistent.
• Or a sealed-can brushed motor up to 20T, such as a Core RC 21T or Tamiya Sport-Tuned.
Both options deliver a fun balance of speed and drivability on indoor tracks, with plenty of torque for tight layouts.
Speed Controller (ESC)
Brushless racers must use Blinky mode (no timing, boost, or turbo). Hobbywing Justock or XR10 Stock Spec units are popular and reliable.
For brushed setups, the Hobbywing 1060 is the go-to choice – it’s inexpensive, smooth, and well within the £60 RRP limit specified in the rules.
Batteries
You may use either 2S hard-cased LiPo packs or 6-cell NiMH/NiCd packs. LiPos provide better punch and runtime, while NiMH batteries are a great low-cost option for newcomers. Always ensure your LiPos are charged and stored safely, and preferably use packs on the BRCA approved list.
Tyres
Rubber tyres only – no foams. You can choose any compound and insert combination.
Popular club choices include Sweep, Ride, and Tamiya M-Grip tyres, depending on carpet type and temperature. It’s worth experimenting to find the best balance of front-to-rear grip for your driving style.
Bodyshells
The class is open, so you can run any M-chassis compatible shell – from classic Minis to modern hot hatches. Lightweight racing shells are fine, but many racers love to recreate realistic road cars for that extra bit of charm.
Additive
Tyre additive can be used to fine-tune grip levels. Water-based options such as MR33, SXT 3.0, or Spider Blue are popular and safe to use indoors. Apply a light, even coat to the rear tyres and a reduced amount or none at all on the fronts to maintain balance.
Spares & Hop-Ups
The most useful spares to keep in your pit box are driveshafts and suspension arms, as these are the parts most likely to break during racing.
Optional upgrades like bearings, oil shocks, and aluminium steering parts can make the car more precise and consistent but aren’t essential to start.
Tamiya Iconic Touring
The Tamiya Iconic Touring Car Class was created to provide competitive racing on a budget. Parts are cheap and widely available, and it is a great class for both beginners and experienced racers alike.
Chassis
A variety of chassis from Tamiya are available but the majority of racers use the TT-01E. The others are the TT-01, TL-01, TT-02 and the TA-02.
Motors
The Core RC 21 turn motor is the motor of choice for most people and is available for under £10 but equivalent motors are also acceptable.
Speed Controllers (ESC)
Any suitable speed controller is acceptable. The majority use the cheap and reliable Hobbywing 1060 but the ISDT 70/90 would also work well.
Servo
A standard sized servo works well in this class and are available for all budgets. Popular brands are Highest, Savox and Power HD.
Batteries
A 2S LiPo battery (hardcase only) is recommended for this class and is the maximum you can use – CoreRC do some “rounded” cells perfect for the Tamiya rounded chassis shape. 6 cell NIMh/NICd are also allowed and are ideal for beginners.
Tyres
The only stipulation here is that they need to be rubber. Popular brands are Schumacher, Contact and Rush. The compound should have either a 28 or 30 shore rating.
Bodyshell
Scale bodies are the rule here and 90’s BTCC (or similar) bodies are actively encouraged.
Additive
Additive is needed to help with grip around the track and ones that are water-based work best. Good options to choose from are MR33, SXT 3.0 and Spider Blue. Apply full width on the rears and about half-width on the inside of the front depending on grip levels. Remember to always wipe them down before going on track.
Spares & Hop-Ups
Keep spare wishbones and driveshafts in your pit box – they’re the most common breakages. Hop-ups are allowed, we always recommend a full ball-race kit and alloy wheel hexes. Speak to a racer on a club night for the full low-down on what’s good and what’s best to avoid.
GT12 / LMGT3
GT12 and LMGT3 cars share the same track and provide some of the closest, most competitive racing you’ll see at the club. Despite looking very different, both classes offer similar performance levels and promote driver skill over pure power. GT12 cars are lightweight, pure race machines, while LMGT3 cars combine GT3-inspired looks with accessible, durable running gear.
Chassis
GT12 cars use dedicated 1/12th-scale pan chassis, such as those from Schumacher, Mardave, or Zen. They’re ultra-lightweight and feature a single rear-drive pod with a front independent suspension plate.
LMGT3 cars, on the other hand, are based on the same chassis, but fitted with GT3 body shells. They share similar handling characteristics, though are slightly heavier and run 2S power.
Both classes have a minimum weight of 950 g and a minimum ride height of 3 mm.
Motors
For GT12, any 13.5T BRCA-approved brushless motor is eligible. These offer a great balance of performance and efficiency for indoor carpet racing.
LMGT3 cars use 25.5T fixed-timing motors, usually from Hobbywing or Surpass, the same as the Brushless 12th Mini class. This keeps speeds manageable and costs low while allowing plenty of close competition.
Speed Controller (ESC)
Both classes run in Blinky mode – no boost or turbo. Popular options include Hobbywing Justock, XR10 Stock Spec, and SkyRC TS120. These offer smooth, predictable throttle response ideal for low-grip carpet tracks.
Batteries
GT12 cars run on 1S LiPo packs (3.7V), keeping weight down and power delivery smooth.
LMGT3 cars use 2S shorty LiPos, providing more punch to offset their extra weight.
In both cases, we recommend using BRCA-approved LiPo packs for safety and consistency. Always charge to 4.20 V per cell and use a LiPo bag while charging.
Tyres
Both classes use foam tyres.
GT12 tyres are open choice, but Contact RC and JFT are the most common brands.
LMGT3 cars typically run a control tyre – Contact RC with a purple stripe – providing equal grip and wear across the grid. Keep your tyres trued and cleaned for consistent performance.
Bodyshells
GT12 cars usually run sleek, Le Mans–inspired shells such as the Schumacher SupaStox, Phat Bodies GT12 range, or Montech GT12 shells.
LMGT3 cars run more realistic GT3-style shells, replicating real-world sports cars from manufacturers like Porsche, Ferrari, and Mercedes. The combination of realism and performance makes them a crowd favourite.
Additive
Foam tyres respond best to additives such as Spider Grip Blue or SXT 3.0. Apply evenly to the rears, let soak for around 20 minutes, then wipe off and leave 5 minutes to dry before racing. The fronts are rarely treated unless you need more initial steering.
Spares & Hop-Ups
GT12 and LMGT3 cars are simple and durable, making them ideal for consistent club racing. Keep spare front wishbones, kingpins, and axle parts handy, as these take the most abuse.
Hop-ups such as alloy pods, titanium kingpins, or carbon braces are allowed and can fine-tune performance, but aren’t essential for starting out.