Your radio gear is one of the most important parts of your setup. A reliable transmitter and receiver help keep your car predictable and under control on track.

• Transmitter type: Stick-style and wheel-style transmitters are both available. Stick transmitters are common in Formula and some indoor classes, while wheel transmitters are often used for Touring and 1/10-scale cars. Try both styles before buying if possible.
• Receiver: Make sure it is compatible with your transmitter. Binding and fail-safe features are important.
• Servo compatibility: Check that your radio equipment is compatible with the servo you choose.
• Transmitter battery: Keep a fully charged battery or pack ready for race night.

Alongside your car and radio gear, you’ll need a few essentials to keep your car running and make working on it at the track easier.

Charger and Charging Accessories

• A suitable LiPo or NiMH charger. Basic chargers are available from around £15, while more advanced models offer additional features such as discharge and cycle functions.
• Suitable charge leads and connectors for your batteries.
• Always use balance charging for LiPo batteries.

Tools

The tools you’ll need depend on your class. Many Tamiya cars use cross-head screws, while other chassis use hex-head screws in sizes from around 1.5mm to 3mm. A suitable driver set will cover most routine maintenance.

Pit Table

The club has a limited number of tables available to borrow. Bringing a simple picnic table of your own is a good idea, especially if you need space to repair or rebuild your car.

Formula One cars are light, fast and rewarding to drive, while remaining relatively straightforward to maintain. Here’s a guide to the main components.

Chassis

You’ll need a 1/10-scale F1-style chassis. Popular options include the Tamiya F102, F103 and F104, which are simple and have readily available parts. More modern options include the Exotek Ultra, Xray X1 and Schumacher Icon, which offer additional tuning options.

Motors

The club guide recommends brushed motors, including the 27T Core RC brushed motor, typically around £10, or a standard Tamiya Silvercan motor, which is slower but inexpensive and durable.

Speed Controller (ESC)

A suitable brushed ESC can be used. Options listed in the guide include the ISDT ESC70 / ESC90 and Hobbywing 1060 / 1080.

Servo

A low-profile servo is recommended because space is limited in F1 chassis. Savox and Highest RC are examples of brands to consider. Look for reliable, precise steering response.

LiPo Batteries

Most racers use 2S LiPo packs rated at 7.4V or 7.6V nominal. Charge to a maximum of 4.20V per cell and consider packs on the BRCA approved list.

Tyres

Foam tyres provide grip and consistency. Matrix options commonly used include 45/50 shore fronts and 30/35 shore rears. Contact RC is another option. Rubber tyres may also be used, with harder fronts and softer rears suggested for balance.

Bodyshells

Use an F1-style shell. Popular brands include Mardave, Montech and Tamiya. Choose a livery you like; replica designs are popular but not essential.

Additive

Water-based tyre additives such as MR33, SXT 3.0 and Spider Blue are options listed in the guide. A starting point is full-width application on the rear tyres and approximately half-width on the inside of the fronts. Wipe the tyres before going on track.

Spares and Hop-Ups

Keep spare wishbones and wheel knuckles in your pit box, as these are common breakages. Hop-ups are allowed, so you can upgrade as much or as little as you prefer.

12th-scale Mini racing is an accessible way to enjoy close racing. Brushed cars offer a straightforward entry point, while brushless cars provide another option for drivers looking to explore different equipment.

Chassis

Mardave and Battcave are common chassis manufacturers, with suitable options also available from Kamtec and TWR. Chassis may come pre-built or as kits, including steering arms, motor pods, suspension parts and turnbuckles.

Brushed chassis often have cut-outs for low-mounted NiMH batteries. Brushless chassis commonly use a solid lower plate to protect LiPo batteries and maintain rigidity.

Motors

• Brushed: Mardave G2 F20, Kamtec Satan 20T and 21T Silvercan motors are examples listed in the guide.
• Brushless: 25.5T motors from brands such as Hobbywing and Surpass are common. Matching motor and ESC combos are available. Other 25.5T 2S-compatible motors may be used provided the total cost does not exceed £50, according to the guide.

Speed Controllers (ESC)

• Brushed: The Mtroniks Mardave HR3 is listed as a common choice for 4.8V NiMH power. A Hobbywing 1060 may also be used, though some setups may require modification.
• Brushless: Hobbywing and Surpass combos are common. The ESC must be 2S-compatible and must not enable boost or timing changes. The guide sets a maximum recommended budget of £80.

Servo

Most cars use standard-size or low-profile servos with a 25T spline. A low-profile servo can help with packaging and weight distribution. Some chassis also allow forward-mounted micro servos. The guide recommends a budget of up to £50.

Batteries

• Brushed: 4.8V four-cell NiMH packs, in stick or saddle configuration. Saddle cells can help lower the centre of gravity.
• Brushless: A 2S shorty LiPo, ideally 93mm long. Some chassis may be modified to accept packs up to 95mm. Check the BRCA homologation list for approved packs.

Tyres

Both versions use foam tyres, commonly from Contact RC. Typical choices listed are 47 shore fronts (JM47FB) and 35 shore rears (JM35RN). Different shore ratings can help adjust grip and balance.

Bodyshells

PHAT Bodies is listed as a popular supplier, alongside Kamtec, Mardave and Battcave. You can paint your own shell or choose a professionally airbrushed finish.

Additive

Spider Grip Blue and SXT 3.0 are listed options. A suggested starting point is to apply additive to the rear tyres, allow 20 minutes to soak, wipe off, then leave around five minutes to dry. Front tyres are rarely treated.

Spares and Hop-Ups

Useful spares include front wishbones and kingpins. Keeping tyres in different shore ratings can help you adapt to grip levels. Camber braces, servo braces and upgraded servo mounts are optional upgrades.

Group C cars bring classic endurance-racing looks to the indoor circuit. The class can use dedicated Group C chassis or suitable F1 chassis converted to the appropriate wheelbase and body mounts.

Chassis

Options include original Tamiya Group C tub chassis kits, such as the Jaguar XJR-12 and Mercedes C11, or F1 chassis adapted for the class. Examples include the Tamiya F103/F104, Xray X1 and Schumacher Icon.

Motors

The guide recommends the same 27T Core brushed motor used in Formula One. Standard Silvercan motors are also permitted.

ESC

A suitable brushed ESC is listed as acceptable. Examples include the ISDT ESC70/ESC90 and Hobbywing 1060/1080.

Servo

A low-profile servo is strongly recommended where space is limited. Savox and Highest RC are examples of brands to consider.

LiPo Batteries

Use 2S LiPo packs, nominally 7.4V or 7.6V. Charge to a maximum of 4.20V per cell. The guide recommends using packs on the BRCA approved list.

Tyres

Foam tyres are recommended for grip. Popular options include Matrix, Fenix Racing and Contact RC foams. Rubber tyres are also permitted, with softer rears and slightly harder fronts suggested for balance.

Bodyshells

Use a shell representing the classic Group C or early LMP era. Examples include the Tamiya Jaguar, Mazda 787B, Sauber Mercedes and Porsche 962.

Additive

Water-based additives such as MR33, SXT 3.0 and Spider Blue are listed options. Apply full-width on the rear tyres and approximately half-width on the inside of the fronts, then wipe off before running.

Spares and Hop-Ups

Keep spare wishbones, wheel knuckles and front-end hardware available. Hop-ups are permitted, allowing you to strengthen or tune the car to suit your needs.

Blinky Touring Cars offer fast, competitive racing while keeping electronics settings straightforward. The ESC must run without boost or turbo timing.

Chassis

Any 1/10-scale Touring Car chassis may be used. Budget-friendly examples include Xpress, Schumacher and Yokomo, while Mugen, Xray and Infinity offer higher-end kits.

Motors

Use a 17.5T brushless motor or slower. Many drivers gear for a final drive ratio (FDR) between 5.2 and 5.6, adjusting to suit the car and driving style.

Speed Controller (ESC)

The ESC must run in Blinky mode, with no boost or turbo. Punch can be adjusted to sharpen initial throttle response if preferred.

Servo

A low-profile servo is recommended to save space and keep weight low.

LiPo Batteries

Most drivers use a full-size 2S LiPo, rated at 7.4V or 7.6V nominal. Charge to a maximum of 4.20V per cell. BRCA-listed packs are recommended.

Tyres

Slick rubber tyres only. Popular choices for the club surface include Volante 28s, Contact 30s and Rush 28s.

Bodyshells

Aerodynamic “aero blob” shells are popular for performance. Common choices include Montech, Xtreme and Bittydesign.

Additive

Water-based additives such as MR33, SXT 3.0 and Spider Blue are listed options. Apply full-width on the rear tyres and approximately half-width on the inside of the fronts, then wipe before racing.

Spares and Hop-Ups

Keep spare wishbones and driveshafts in your pit box. Hop-ups are permitted, so you can upgrade as needed once you’re familiar with the car.

FRONTIE is a 1/10-scale front-wheel-drive touring car class. It shares some of the straightforward, fixed-timing approach of Blinky Touring Car, while using front-wheel-drive chassis and scale FRONTIE bodyshells.

Chassis

A 1/10-scale front-wheel-drive touring car chassis is required. Choose a suitable FWD platform and check that it is compatible with the class regulations before buying.

Motor

The class uses a fixed-timing Hobbywing Justock 17.5T brushless motor, with a maximum motor speed limit of 17,500 RPM.

Speed Controller (ESC)

The specified ESC is from the Hobbywing Justock G3 Series. The class uses fixed timing, with no boost or turbo.

Gearing

A fixed final drive ratio (FDR) of either 4.5 or 5.0 is used.

Batteries and Radio Gear

Use compatible battery, receiver and servo equipment for your chosen 1/10-scale FWD chassis. Check the current class regulations for any specific requirements.

Tyres

The class uses Ride slicks or Ride cut slicks.

Bodyshells

Scale FRONTIE bodyshells from the BRCA approved bodyshell list are used. Make sure your chosen shell is included on the current list before purchasing or painting it.

Spares and Hop-Ups

Keep commonly needed suspension and drivetrain spares for your chosen chassis. Check the class regulations before making modifications or purchasing performance upgrades.

Compact, nimble and often styled after iconic road cars, 2WD M-Chassis models are a great way to enjoy close racing with manageable running costs.

Chassis

Tamiya’s M-05 and M-07 are popular front-wheel-drive options. Older models such as the M-03 can also perform well when maintained. Xpress and 3Racing offer other FWD M-class options.

The guide specifies a minimum ride height of 5mm and a minimum total weight of 1200g.

Motors

• A 21.5T brushless motor running in Blinky mode.
• A sealed-can brushed motor up to 20T, such as a Core RC 21T or Tamiya Sport-Tuned.

Both options offer a balance of speed and drivability for indoor tracks.

Speed Controller (ESC)

Brushless setups must run in Blinky mode, with no timing, boost or turbo. Hobbywing Justock and XR10 Stock Spec are examples. For brushed setups, the Hobbywing 1060 is listed as a popular choice, within the £60 RRP limit stated in the guide.

Batteries

Use either 2S hard-cased LiPo packs or six-cell NiMH/NiCd packs. LiPos offer strong power delivery, while NiMH can be a lower-cost option. Charge and store batteries safely; BRCA-approved packs are recommended.

Tyres

Rubber tyres only; foam tyres are not permitted according to the guide. Compound and insert choice are open. Popular examples include Sweep, Ride and Tamiya M-Grip, depending on carpet and temperature.

Bodyshells

Any M-Chassis-compatible shell may be used, from classic Minis to modern hatchbacks. Lightweight racing shells are fine, while realistic road-car bodies are also popular.

Additive

Water-based options such as MR33, SXT 3.0 and Spider Blue can be used to tune grip. Apply a light, even coat to the rear tyres and less, or none, on the fronts to maintain balance.

Spares and Hop-Ups

Useful spares include driveshafts and suspension arms. Bearings, oil shocks and aluminium steering parts are optional upgrades, not essential for getting started.

This class aims to deliver close, competitive racing on a budget, with inexpensive and widely available parts. It is suitable for both beginners and experienced racers.

Chassis

Most racers use the Tamiya TT-01E. Other chassis listed include the TT-01, TL-01, TT-02 and TA-02.

Motors

The Core RC 21T motor is a popular choice and typically costs under £10. Equivalent motors are also acceptable according to the guide.

Speed Controller (ESC)

Any suitable ESC is listed as acceptable. Popular choices include the Hobbywing 1060 and ISDT ESC70/ESC90.

Servo

A standard-size servo is suitable. Brands used by racers include Highest, Savox and Power HD.

Batteries

A 2S hard-case LiPo is recommended and is the maximum LiPo configuration listed. Rounded-cell packs such as those offered by Core RC can suit the rounded battery area of Tamiya chassis. Six-cell NiMH/NiCd packs are also permitted and can be a good beginner option.

Tyres

Rubber tyres only, with a 28 or 30 shore compound. Popular brands include Schumacher, Contact and Rush.

Bodyshell

Scale bodyshells are required. 1990s BTCC-style bodies, or similar touring-car designs, are actively encouraged.

Additive

Water-based additives such as MR33, SXT 3.0 and Spider Blue are recommended options. Apply full-width on the rear tyres and approximately half-width on the inside of the fronts, adjusting for grip. Wipe the tyres before running.

Spares and Hop-Ups

Keep spare wishbones and driveshafts in your pit box. Hop-ups are permitted; the guide recommends a full ball-race kit and aluminium wheel hexes. Ask experienced club racers for advice before investing in upgrades.

GT12 and LMGT3 share the track and offer close, competitive racing. GT12 cars are lightweight purpose-built race machines, while LMGT3 cars use GT3-inspired bodyshells and accessible running gear.

Chassis

GT12 cars use dedicated 1/12-scale pan chassis, with examples from Schumacher, Mardave and Zen. These lightweight cars use a rear-drive pod and front suspension plate.

LMGT3 cars use a similar chassis platform with GT3-style bodyshells. The guide specifies a minimum weight of 950g and a minimum ride height of 3mm for both classes.

Motors

• GT12: Any 13.5T BRCA-approved brushless motor is listed as eligible.
• LMGT3: 25.5T fixed-timing motors, commonly from Hobbywing or Surpass, matching the Brushless 1/12 Mini specification described in the guide.

Speed Controller (ESC)

Both classes run in Blinky mode, without boost or turbo. Examples include Hobbywing Justock, XR10 Stock Spec and SkyRC TS120.

Batteries

• GT12: 1S LiPo packs, nominally 3.7V.
• LMGT3: 2S shorty LiPo packs.

The guide recommends BRCA-approved packs. Charge to a maximum of 4.20V per cell and use a LiPo charging bag.

Tyres

Both classes use foam tyres. GT12 tyre choice is open, with Contact RC and JFT listed as common brands. LMGT3 typically uses the Contact RC control tyre with a purple stripe. Keep tyres trued and clean for consistent performance.

Bodyshells

GT12 cars commonly use Le Mans-inspired shells, including Schumacher SupaStox, PHAT Bodies GT12 and Montech GT12 options. LMGT3 cars use realistic GT3-style shells representing cars such as Porsche, Ferrari and Mercedes models.

Additive

Spider Grip Blue and SXT 3.0 are listed options for foam tyres. Apply evenly to the rears, allow around 20 minutes to soak, wipe off and leave approximately five minutes to dry. Fronts are rarely treated unless more initial steering is needed.

Spares and Hop-Ups

Keep front wishbones, kingpins and axle parts available. Optional upgrades include alloy pods, titanium kingpins and carbon braces, but these aren’t essential when starting out.